Day 18 – Masterton to Wellington at 5 in the morning, an introduction to the South Island via the Fjords and a moment of sublime pleasure……

It’s very dark at 4:30 in the morning!

We departed by 5am, saying our goodbyes to Fi and Justin and set off southwards to hit Wellington by 7:30am. The roads were even quieter than normal and we made good time, slowly seeing the sun rise over the eastern mountains. Arriving in Wellington, we were travelling in “commuter time”. Cyclists and cars already on their way into work. We were struck by the amazing view (again) over Wellington Harbour and the mountains beyond. Cruise liners were slowly coming in to berth as we lined up to wait our turn to board the ferry.

Wellington lies nestled into the hills, sprawling down to the harbour and must be an amazing place to work in.. All those views to inspire you!

Mitch was a little worried about the possible swell during the ferry crossing. We had been advised that the crossing could be quite hairy, but today the sun shone on us and the waters were as mild as a summer breeze. Before we knew it, we were entering the Fjords of the South Island and they greeted us with sunny skies and these amazing sweeping hills all cascading into Queen Charlotte Sound on our way into Picton, It really was a lovely approach into the South Island and is well recommended. (Assuming of course, that the crossing is equally mild!)

We decanted off the ferry at Picton and stopped for a quick coffee there. There is a delightful shop which had a placard proclaiming, “Picton’s Husband Day Care Centre”. Made us chuckle.

Picton itself was a typical sea side small town with a few shops, but for us, we had a long journey ahead of us so we left shortly after the coffee and headed south down SH1 through Blenheim on our way down to the first potential stopping point at Waima River, just below Ward.

We had been advised (by the Frenzy guide) that there was a seal colony 90 minute’s walk from the Waima River and we thought it would be good to stretch our legs at this point. However, by the time we arrived it had started to rain so we carried on, hoping to see some seals at least on the route down. We were not to be disappointed and, in a few hours, little did we know that we were about to have an encounter that will stay in our minds for ever, and probably was the highlight of our holiday!

Travelling further south, we wanted to get to Ohau Point, just north of Kaikoura. Again, the Frenzy guide recommended that we could see a seal colony there, but even before we got there, we could see the seals off on the rocks, so we stopped to take a few photos of them sunning themselves on the rocky beaches. (Well, it wasn’t sunny but you know what I mean?)

The main desire though, was to stop approximately 1 kilometre north of Ohau Point, at Ohau River because we had read that a waterfall and pool existed here, some 5 minutes’ walk from the road edge and , if one was very lucky, one might find wild baby seals in it from time to time. The Frenzy Guide author had written that in the “20 times he had visited this place, he had NEVER seen any baby seals”, so we were trying not to get too excited about the possibility of seeing any. I must admit, that with the rain still coming down, I didn’t really think that any seals would be there……..

But, I was wrong!

We parked at the entrance to the river and immediately crossed over SH1 and headed off along a small path towards the sound of the river. And as if Heaven’s gates had opened, we were greeted by at least 8-10 baby seals all playing in the water, jumping over each other and nipping each other, seemingly oblivious or unworried about us arriving on their turf. There was no-one there. We could not believe it. Here they were, not more than 2m away from us and not afraid. We just had to stop and stare and just take in this wonder.

The river enters the sea here and climbs up a boulder-strewn course, with a plunge pool, some 150m further upstream, which is fed by a large waterfall. The baby and juvenile seals all clamber up the river and finish up in the plunge pool. It is almost like having a playing field for kids, where mum and dad know their kids are safe, thus allowing them to go off hunting for food. The climb itself, for the baby seals, must be a feat in itself!

We moved on up to the plunge pool and there, another 15-20 juvenile seals were playing and splashing and diving under the waterfall. It was simply amazing and so humbling just to watch quietly as they played.

And then……

Mitch sat down at the water’s edge just to observe them from low down. One of them looked over to her from the depths of the pool, then slowly, ever so slowly, started to swim closer and closer to her. Checking out this “strange creature” whilst still appearing to be unafraid. The pup came within inches of Mitch, stayed for a few seconds, whilst Mitch, in her shock, stayed glued to the spot, not daring to move. The brief encounter was an electrifying moment for the two of us, but then the seal, having checked her out, jumped back into the water to go and play with its mates.

Mitch was a little disappointed that she had “bottled it” as, for her, it was such a moving experience. I tried to reassure her that the seal coming to her in the first place was amazing anyway and that perhaps another opportunity would arise.

I sat down then, and another pup came over to me a gave my fingers a sniff, its whiskers brushing my hand before springing back to play again with the others.

We must have stayed there for a good 20 minutes. Seals and us, undisturbed by other humans, just watching them, before we sadly turned back downstream to continue our journey. But not until we had said our goodbyes to the first group of seal pups we had met at the river entrance previously.

Mitch again sat down near the edge of the water and this time, another pup came up to her, getting closer and closer, sliding through the water with ease, reached out to her now slightly outstretched hand…. And touched her extended hand in greeting…. Just for a moment.

Human and wild animal connected across the field of communication.

It is a small thing, but for us, this quiet time with these wild, beautiful seals, and seeing their “acceptance” of our respect of their place and therefore their acceptance of us, was both humbling and exhilarating and we will never forget it!

We got back into the RV and drove on down the few kilometres to Kaikoura, quiet, happy and with a strong sense of peace embracing us.

Night night.